(Yes, I realize there are a lot of other choices for switches and dome bumps, but I am lazy and am going with what I know.)
These switches are of the correct diameter for the holes in the dome (3/4"), but the bezel is square instead of round.
With droid #1, I filed and sanded these round by hand. Now that I have my drill press and the sanding drum attachments, I can at least remove most of the material without much effort.
The sanding drum did a nice job of removing the vast majority of the material.
I used 100 and 400 grit sand paper to finish them off.
I will likely need to sand the threads down on the bottom part too, as the fit is just a little too tight through the holes in the dome. And of course, I'll paint them blue.
2 comments:
Don't do it! My biggest regret on my R2 ! I can (almost) endure the kids tugging on the aluminum holoprojectors, but relentlessly powering off and on the lighting, no!
I totally know what you mean Paul. It annoys me too, and is the one big drawback to this approach.
A couple of factors in my decision:
1) I don't want to run wires from the dome to the body, so I need separate power to the dome; thus, switches must also be somewhere on the dome.
2) I would rather not have to remove the dome to turn off and on the dome electronics, so I need something on the outside of the dome. I could go with something that is less obviously an on/off switch, but most or all of the flat switches out there are momentary switches, requiring additional logic for them to behave as if they are in a steady on/off state.
Since I am (as stated) lazy, I went with the same thing as droid #1. I reserve the right to regret this decision and do something else in the future. :)
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